🗓️ November 04, 2025

🏁 Kilometers : 282

I start this fifteenth day of hiking, still motivated of course, but with less enthusiasm for the week ahead. Over the next 5 days, 120 kilometers to cover, 90 of which are along roads—mostly paved and sometimes gravel. The original trail went through Russell Forest, but due to the Kauri tree disease, it was closed 5 years ago, and we have to take a significant detour. I try not to look too far ahead, I take things as they come without getting discouraged. I had a good night's sleep and I'm ready to set off for the day. I put on some upbeat music to distract myself, but using only one earbud: I need to be able to hear approaching vehicles. The path climbs and descends countless small hills, passing a few isolated houses. Most of the time, the path winds through forests and meanders alongside meadows dotted with cows, calves, and horses. In this northern part of the country, I'm surprised by the scarcity of sheep farms; most farms produce milk and beef. I was familiar with New Zealand's reputation for producing mainly lamb and wool, but between 1980 and 2025, the sheep population plummeted from 70 million to 25 million head. This decline is due to farmers shifting from sheep meat production to milk production, and also to a national policy offering tax credits to those who plant a significant number of trees, thus reducing the country's carbon footprint.

Halfway through the hike, I meet the Americans Greg and Ashley. We haven't talked much since the start of the trek, despite having met on the very first day. So this stretch of road is a good opportunity to get to know each other better. And it'll be fun; they're amusing and spontaneous, and their dynamic as a couple is adorable—they never have a bad word to say to each other.We find some golf balls by the side of the road, so it's the perfect opportunity to launch an international ball-smashing tournament, even though we don't have any tees to place them on. Our throws are pathetic, but at least they entertain us. We talk about our previous trips, the reasons that led us to embark on this trek, and a bit of politics, including the recent antics of their beloved President, Donald Trump.

We arrive at our campsite for the night, a beautiful converted farm that caters to tourists but also to workers who receive room and board in exchange for their farm work. A few other hikers are already there, so we pitch our tents, looking forward to a relaxing evening.

🗓️ November 05, 2025

🏁 Kilometers : 307

I start the day taking my time, knowing full well that 75% of today's hike will be on roads. The group I spent the evening with takes a bus to cut out the 20 kilometers of asphalt. I don't mind walking alone, but it's strange to consistently find myself at the back; I meet hikers who are hitchhiking and therefore are constantly ahead of me.

The weather is perfect, the landscapes unfold one after another and are surprisingly varied, breaking the monotony of my progress. I see rolling meadows sculpted into terraces by grazing cows, mangrove forests bathed by a rising sea that laps at the roadside, and even wild pigs—a sow (the big one) and her six piglets. A funny little anecdote: a hiker who was camping the night before starting her trek at Cape Reinga found herself with a wild boar in her tent. It tore through her sleeping mat and devoured her food supplies… quite a start for her! A spirit of solidarity among the hikers rallied to replace her tent and provisions.

After these 20 kilometers of road, I take a very well-maintained trail that winds into the forest, climbing the surrounding hills to an altitude of 350 meters. The trail goes up and down constantly, and the previous 20 kilometers on the road had left my legs feeling heavy, so my progress became very slow. Reaching the summit, I arrive at a kind of plateau covered in meadows, with the forest enveloping the slopes below. The path continues along the edge of the plateau and eventually reaches a small clearing that serves as a campsite. A slightly wobbly picnic table and a water tank are available for hikers. I could continue for another 6 kilometers and find another campsite with showers, but I'm exhausted. And this place looks amazing! I set up camp and don't see a single person until I leave the next morning.

🗓️ November 06, 2025

🏁 Kilometers : 330

What a joy to wake up early surrounded by nature! The weather is superb, and the birds are putting on a joyful concert. I settle down at the wobbly camping table and heat up some hot water for breakfast (twice, because I clumsily spill the entire contents the first time). With my things packed away, I set off. I only have 3 kilometers of trails before reaching a road that I'll follow for the rest of the day. Walking along the asphalt, I wonder if I'm being too stubborn—I haven't met anyone since the start of the trek who, like me, walks every kilometer without ever hitchhiking. It's true that walking along the roads doesn't offer much and isn't very pleasant. Fortunately, the traffic is light, which at least reduces the danger. I chat with the few cows I pass for company, even though the detached way they look at me while chewing their gum suggests a certain judgment. So I let them gossip about me and continue on my way.

Once I've finished the road section, I have two kilometers of trails left to reach the next campsite. I'd read that a small snack bar offers lunch, which is great—a nice change from my usual routine. When I arrive, the owner, who seems to be the campsite manager, convenience store manager, and snack bar manager all rolled into one, tells me there's nothing to eat today. Darn it! I pitch my tent and eat whatever I can find in my bag when another hiker approaches me. His name is Pablo, he's also 35, and he's from Guatemala but has spent the last 15 years in Germany. We introduce ourselves, and he tells me that he too, walks every kilometer. Finally! I'm not alone. The funniest thing is that I kept thinking I was the only hiker doing all the road sections in despair when he was only about two kilometers ahead of me! We spend the rest of the afternoon together, admiring the most beautiful sunset since the start of the adventure, and we agree to start the hike tomorrow morning at the same time.