🗓️ January 09, 2026

🏁 Kilometers : 1786

Today we're taking the ferry from Wellington to Picton, located on the South Island, to cross the Cook Strait. Once there, we have an hour to spare before boarding a shuttle boat that will take us to the starting point of the Queen Charlotte Trail, located at the entrance to the bay of the same name. Renowned for its beauty, this four-day hike winds through a forest nestled in the heart of sea flooded valleys.

When the boat drops us off at the jetty at the trailhead, we feel like we're in a truly remote place, and looking at a map confirms our location; we're practically at the northernmost point of the South Island, at the end of the mountain range that stretches from north to south and plunges into the ocean at this point. An interesting detail: this mountain range is known under the name Alps (but of course New Zealand Alps).

We begin to walk along the trail, which proves to be very easy to follow, wide and with a gentle climb. Our first impression is of being in the south of France, surrounded by pine trees and insects that sound like crickets, under a blue sky and turquoise sea. We decide to walk only five kilometers and stop at the first campsite to fully enjoy this summery atmosphere, a welcome change from the muddy mountains we crossed the previous week.

Upon arriving at the campsite, we discover a small grassy slope that ends at a pebble beach, with a small stream running alongside. This charming little cove is lined with pine trees, and the blue sea beckons us to relax. We pitch our tents and take a dip in the refreshing water! The evening ends with card games and an atmosphere that evokes a feeling of being a teenager.

A true holiday feeling!

🗓️ January 10, 2026

🏁 Kilometers : 1808

We only have 22 kilometers to cover today, so we know we can take our time. We wake up later than usual, have a leisurely breakfast, and begin our hike. The trail winds along successive coves and occasionally climbs higher. The views are superb, the green of the vegetation nestled between the blues of the sea and sky.

We pass by a few houses, which finally tells us that we're not so alone on this stretch of land, even if they are relatively scattered and accessible only by boat.

I arrive at the evening campsite relatively early, with several options for pitching my tent: a little further back next to a shelter, protected by the forest, or directly by the sea. I choose the last option, a little more exposed to the winds but much more charming! And what a surprise to see dozens of stingrays moving around in the water, in about forty centimeters of water. They are fascinating to watch, the largest ones sometimes even having their fins out of the water when they swim. We discover that we are located 100 meters from a sort of bungalow hotel; drawn like insects to light, we decide to go and have a drink… in our camping clothes, we stand out in the hotel's shimmering atmosphere… cheers!

I go to bed, but I am woken at 10:30 p.m. by Jolly who tells me about the presence of bioluminescent phytoplankton in the bay, a phenomenon I had never seen before. When we dip our toes in the water, or when we throw a stone, or even simply with the waves, the phytoplankton emits a faint light that looks like tiny stars in the darkness of the night. We exclaim in delight every time we throw a stone into the water and watch the lights react with the ripples and splashes, creating little fireworks displays on the surface.

As if that weren't enough, we can also see tiny green and blue dots in the forest, created by numerous glowworms, the same ones we had already seen in the Waitomo Caves about forty days earlier. This isolated natural setting is magical and seems straight out of a movie (Avatar for example, for those in the know).

It's with pure delight I’m closing my eyes. I even dream about fireworks during the night. Strange!

🗓️ January 11, 2026

🏁 Kilometers : 1831

The wind blew strongly all night, but I still slept very well, as did my companions. Today, we have 23 kilometers to cover on the same trail as yesterday, this time leaving the coast and following the ridges. The surrounding peaks rising from the sea stand here and there before us, in a labyrinth of peninsulas, islets, and straits. This landscape was created by the Australian and Pacific tectonic plates, which overlap along the length of New Zealand, creating numerous earthquakes, volcanoes, and unique geological features, and in this particular geographical area, causing the mountains to slide into the ocean.

Despite this tangle of islands, our route is easy to follow, hugging ridge after ridge in an almost straight line, with a piece of the ocean on either side. The forest is quite dense, but we are often treated to magnificent views.

Upon arriving at camp that evening, the wind that had blown almost all day continues unabated and is expected to intensify even further overnight, with gusts reaching 90 km/h.

All that remains is to cross our fingers for a good night's sleep.

🗓️ January 12, 2026

🏁 Kilometers : 1848

…And the night was anything but restful. Around 2 a.m., I woke up to a real storm; the gusts of wind made the trees roar, and the rain was pouring down. I saw lamps flickering all around and checked on my companions: Yvan had water leaking into his tent, and Natalie's one had completely collapsed. Just as I went out to help her, she punctured her tent, making any further pitching impossible… she and Yvan would sleep in the small, semi-open shelter that serves as our makeshift kitchen.

In the morning, we eat breakfast amidst general hilarity, replaying the previous day's events over and over again. Natalie's strength lies in the fact that even in these difficult moments, she readily laughs about it, as she did the previous night when I was helping her gather her things: a soaked sleeping bag, a soaked mattress, Natalie without underwear in the cold and rain trying to pitch her tent... and yet she was laughing at herself and her misfortunes!

We take advantage of the morning to dry our things and don’t start the hike until 11:00 AM, as we only have 17 kilometers to cover that day. We can even afford a long lunch break with a swim and a nap.

The evening campsite is charming; Yvan spontaneously leads a stretching/yoga session before dinner and afterwards we do a few card games.

Since leaving Te Araroa, I've never felt such a strong sense of vacation. A complete escape!

🗓️ January 13, 2026

🏁 Kilometers : 1870

The last few kilometers are spent walking along the Queen Charlotte Trail, followed by a walk along a road to reach the small town of Havelock in the morning. The afternoon is spent organizing supplies for the next four days of hiking and doing laundry. We finish the evening at a restaurant and, of course, playing some games!