🗓️ November 27, 2025

🏁 Kilometers : 826

We spent the night on the grass next to a café, whose owner allows hikers to camp there, provided they pack everything up by 7 a.m. before the customers arrive. It's customary to have breakfast at the café, which isn't a problem since everything looks delicious! Having all gathered after the evening celebrating Steve's memory, we set off this morning as a large group, though we quickly spread out across the fields of cows and bulls we cross. We walk along the Waipa River for 6 kilometers, then a few kilometers on asphalt before following a gravel path that climbs the surrounding hills. Reaching the top, we enter sheep pens perched on the ridges, which rise and fall repeatedly, like a series of roller coasters. The view is splendid, with vibrant green grass, grazing sheep, and pale rocks adding to the scenery. It rains occasionally, but never for long. We pass from one enclosure to the next, each with a small gate to close. The very pleasant path continues for 8 kilometers.

I reach a road marking the last kilometer of the day and climb the gravel path that leads to my hosts for the evening. They offer a fixed price of 15 euros, which includes a rustic cabin, a shower, Wi-Fi access, and breakfast. I pay the price but prefer to sleep in a tent; the cabin is where Steve died three days earlier, and I can't bring myself to sleep there.

Our host is very friendly and offers us a cheese fondue for an extra 5 euros. We gladly accept and spend a wonderful evening at his table with his wife. They keep serving us red wine, but I refuse the last glass; knowing myself, I know it will be one too many! We go to bed having had a wonderful evening!

🗓️ November 28, 2025

🏁 Kilometers : 841

Today's stage is a short 15 kilometers, 7 of which are on relatively flat terrain and 8 are uphill. We'll climb the highest "summit" since the start of the trek, Mount Pirongia at 959 meters. The trail, although muddy and strewn with roots, is relatively easy to navigate, except for the last two kilometers, which are more difficult to maneuver. I'm feeling good today, and although I was one of the last to start, I catch up with everyone and arrive at the first hut on the trail at noon. When we will reach the mountains of the South Island, it will be very common to spend the nights there. A communal kitchen/dining room and two dormitories are available, as well as three toilets and a washbasin outside. The comfort is quite decent; I wasn't expecting so much!

As we go along, everyone arrives, and we spend the afternoon/evening together, about fifteen of us, telling stories and playing cards. The atmosphere is very friendly and cozy, the hut being surrounded by fog all day, inviting you to stay inside. I feel comfortable in this group!

🗓️ November 29, 2025

🏁 Kilometers : 856

I wake up to a magnificent sunrise. The fog that had lingered the previous night had dissipated, revealing a clear sky. From the hut's terrace, the view is unobstructed, encompassing other peaks of the massif and the plain below, with the Tongariro volcanoes in the background, some 150 kilometers away as the crow flies. The orange light of the rising sun diffuses across the treetops and the distant mists. The spectacle is dazzling.

I had a very good night's sleep, which isn't usually the case for those who are light sleepers in huts. Everyone eats their own breakfast, which is enjoyed in the company of the other hikers in a cheerful atmosphere. I start my day's hike by immediately tackling a series of short, undulating ascents and descents along the ridge of the peaks for about 3 kilometers. Next, the trail descends into a rather technical path, where, with the mud and roots, I have to use my hands and feet to make progress. I sometimes sink my shoes up to my ankles in the mud and nearly slip several times. Reaching the bottom of the hill, I realize it took me three hours to cover only five kilometers. The next ten kilometers are extremely tedious, first on a gravel track, then on a road. I arrive at "Jo's Funny Farm" (that's its name) by 12:30 pm, but I don't feel like going any further today; the place is charming, and I'm not in a hurry anyway, as I'm on schedule to complete the trek in under six months, as planned.

We spend a pleasant afternoon, punctuated by conversation and lots of laughter. For dinner, we have the choice between “from our own pack” or having our host cook it. We chose the second option without having any idea what was on the menu, which turned out to be a feast! Our host had prepared a potato gratin, cheesy eggs, sausages, cabbage, beets, corn, and peas, plus ice cream for dessert and a huge slice of chocolate cake. We're rarely used to such an abundance of food. With full stomachs, we go to bed, adding another beautiful day to our hearts.